December Reflections

Above: Sticker when I donated from Teleton

For the first time in ages, Santiago is rainy, gray, and dreary outside. It feels almost like the winter that I am used to: dark, desolate, and cold, a perfect time for hot chocolate, mint tea, and snuggling on the couch under a warm blanket near the fireplace. But sadly, that is not to be!

For one, we do not have a fireplace and we do not have gas in our estufa because it is summertime, so blankets will have to do. I also realized that I am a hot beverage person only in theory, so that would not be a good thing to do, either.

In all manners, the day reflects my mood. As my mind thinks 'December! Christmas! Snow!', I know from all the sunny hot days this past month that it is summer and I am always half-confused about time. Who knew that the idea of seasons was so ingrained? 

I have one more month of my Chilean adventure and this weekend marks that point. I have been thinking of what I have done so far and tried to puzzle out the ways in which I have changed. It is difficult to analyze my change. For one, I think I will be better able to note it when I return to familiar surroundings. Second, I am still the same person. After all, I am inhabiting the same body I was inhabiting four months ago...

Schoolwork has died down. Yesterday was our final day of classes where we did not do many special activities. Most classes were spent reviewing for the last time before final exams. In math class, around noon, we came outside with our teacher, played charades, and ordered four boxes of pizza that we passed around. Nothing is better than oily cheesy goodness sometimes to bond us. Then, we watched the 'gimnasia artistica y ritmica' (school's rhythmic and artistic gynastic teams) perform in the gym for an hour. What talent! I also had fun thinking about the interesting dynamic of being a part of a single-sex school; few other places would have their own school gymnastics team in which the majority of students participate!

These next two weeks will be uneventful. My classmates and I are coming to school a few days of every week to take final exams. We will come to school at the same time in the morning but leave school mid-morning after taking each final exam. For example, this Monday is the mathematics final exam, while next Wednesday is the English final exam. After that, it is summer vacation!

On the 8th of December, the month of Maria, mother of Jesus, will end and we will put up our Christmas trees. I can hardly imagine that it is that season! In America, endless Christmas radio songs and holiday mall decorations and sales starting from Halloween time consistently remind me that December holidays are approaching. Here, I have not yet heard a Christmas song. 

I wished my classmates and family 'Happy Thanksgiving' earlier this week and talked to them about its origins, but we did not do anything special for it. I went on a search for pumpkin pie but the supermarkets do not sell pumpkin in the classic Libby's cans; few supermarkets have real pumpkins, but I have never actually made pumpkin pie from scratch, so I decided not to try it (not to mention, I was studying for penultimate exams!) As a family, we decided not to make turkey, given that we are a small family of five and do not actually like turkey that much. As it was, the day passed by quietly, I took some time to feel grateful for this beautiful year and all its opportunities and lessons, and everyone went about their daily routine (which feels that much more stressful and tiring as our hearts and minds are pulling us towards a relaxing season of festivities). 

The closest I have come to encountering a holiday season reminder is Teleton, an annual charity event that started yesterday. In the same way that pink Breast Cancer Foundation products and advertisements are found everywhere in the US, these past few months have been characterized by countless TV advertisements (with a specific Teleton-themed song) and products advertising that a percentage of profits go to Teleton. Since 1978, Chilean TV networks host a 27-hour event (hosted by Don Fernando, a man especially popular among Hispanic Americans) featuring many Chilean celebrities to fundraise for the Teleton Foundation for children with developmental disabilities. Every year, the goal is the amount of money that was raised the past year.

Above: Here I am with our check receipt!

As a family, we watched the broadcast yesterday night. I found it indicative of the small country that if one calls the phone to donate, he will be guaranteed to speak with a Chilean celebrity. My impression is that in the relatively rare celebrity charity event, although the celebrities are featured answering phone calls, the chances of speaking to one is unheard of. 

Above; Here I am at the bank. 

Overall, I admire that Chileans have a strong tradition of giving that is a part of their societal make-up. They have raised hundreds of millions of dollars through this initiative and the Teleton idea itself is a household name. From schools to businesses to individuals, it is a fabulous way to have everyone be a part of something greater. We went to my sister's class barbecue at school and a close friend's birthday party; in both places, people asked if we had donated to Teleton. Even more amazing still, it is the most widely watched telethon in the world. I am seriously considering starting something like Teleton in college!

Above: Many cars are decorated!

For December, I am wishing to make the best of memories; that is, I want to spend more time with my family and show them my gratefulness and love. I also to soak in more Chilean culture (and Vitamin D!) by listening to more music, spending time at the pool, and trying to watch soap operas. It will definitely be bittersweet!

Ciao! :)

A City of Artists: Valparaiso

I spent the last weekend in the most beautiful and artsy Chilean town, Valparaiso. Before the construction of the Panama Canal, the city was the most visited stopover port for sailors during their journey between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. They docked their ships for a day in Valparaiso and would continue another four days to the Strait of Magellan. Valparaiso is also home to the oldest Spanish language publication in the world, El Mercurio, a conservative national newspaper that moved its headquarters from Valparaiso to Santiago almost fifty years ago. 

In the present day, Valparaiso is best known for its colorful buildings amidst a backdrop of steep hills lined around the coastline. I was pleasantly surprised that the city is exactly how it appears on postcards. It is also the location for one of Pablo Neruda's homes, called La Sebastiana.

Valparaiso in Pictures

 

Above: This is the view from our 'boutique hotel' building which is the UNESCO-protected historical home of Vagner. It is also one of the most iconic views of the city.

Above: This was the view from the balcony in the morning. Despite the chilly weather (a good 10 degrees Fahrenheit lower than Santiago's heat), strolling around the city was my favorite part of the weekend.

Above: A view of the Pacific Ocean. The 'Sociber' is a floating dock shipyard to repair ships. It is one of the largest in Latin America.

Above: Every street looked like this, some more colorful than others, but all descending and with cobblestone streets.

 

 

Above: There was a street which copied the French 'Love Locks.' It says "Love, Desire, and Passion. I have always loved you, I found you for 30 years, and I will never let you go. December 1961-July 2014." In the background was a wedding reception.

A Boat Ride in the Harbor

My Chilean mom and I took a passenger boat tour around the harbor. It was a spontaneous decision to go on the tour and the boat was completely full, so the two co-captains offered for us to join them inside the cockpit (I think that is what the location is called). 

While we could not hear the tour guide outside, our non-traditional tour asking the co-captains questions about Valparaiso was arguably better and more fun. I actually learned about Valparaiso's port history and exports from the captains. 

And the coolest part? Halfway through the trip, the captain offered me his steering wheel and I drove the boat for the rest of the time! I learned two new maritime terms: babor (left) and estribor (right). The captains were very nice and loved the fact that an American exchange student was driving their boat in Valparaiso, Chile. I love it when there are unexpected fun experiences like this one! What's more, the captain told me afterwards that I could make a good captain! haha :)

Above: Aww!!

Above: From left to right are Manuel, me, and Juan.

La Sebastiana, Pablo Neruda's Home

Pablo Neruda, Nobel Prize-winning poet and diplomat in France for Chilean President Allende's Communist government (that was ultimately ended by Pinochet in a coup d'etat in 1975 that ushered in a dictatorship until 1991), had three homes which have become converted into museums. I have visited two: La Chascona (named after his third wife's unruly hair) in Santiago and La Sebastiana (named after the Spanish architect Sebastian Callado who died before finishing the house) in Valparaiso. The third is La Casa de Isla Negra (meaning 'The House of Isla Negra') which, naturally, is located in Isla Negra.

Above: This is the view that Neruda saw every morning!

Above: It was amazing!

Above: His home. All five floors of it and very steep stairs.

Neruda was a character. He was a collector - a hoarder, in other words - of odd objects. The house has artwork from around the world and evokes the experience of being on a boat, with its narrow rooms and circular port windows. 

He definitely lived his life to the fullest. He loved hosting friends over; he even constructed a bar in each of his homes that only he could use. He had an office on the highest level of his homes. He woke up early in the mornings, walked, wrote letters to friends and diplomats, wrote poetry, had siesta (a nap), ate lunch with friends, and later dined with his friends until the morning. 

Overall, it is interesting to try to understand the type of person Neruda was. He was an avid reader, a great intellectual. His homes are filled with literary classics of the greatest writers. He studied engineering in university and later would enter into politics. In addition, he traveled abroad often, had three wives, was friends with Fidel Castro, Diego Rivera, Pablo Picasso, and Gabriel Garcia Lorca, and wrote poetry. 

Adventures in the City

The city is most definitely a historic tourist city. There are historical buildings everywhere. My Chilean sisters and I are pretending to knock on the heavy double doors above. (I am in orange in the center.)

As with all Latin American cities, Valparaiso has a plaza (a square) located in the middle of the city.

Above: Heroes of Iquique monument and crypt. The man above is Arturo Prat, while the other men on the second level are fellow heroes Serrano, Riquelme, and Aldea. The plaque in front of the statue (in the left picture) states that the monument symbolizes the spirit of the heroes who offered their lives for Chile.

There is a large white monument dedicated to Arturo Prat and other heroes in the middle of the plaza. Arturo Prat is considered a national hero. He is portrayed on the 10,000 Chilean peso bill (equivalent to around $20 US dollars) and is actually the most ubiquitous street name in Chile. 

As a Chilean naval officer in the 1879 War of the Pacific (Chile fought against Bolivia and Peru to obtain control over the mineral-rich northern regions including Tarapaca and Antofagasta), he gave a rallying cry during the Naval Battle of Iquique to his men saying 'Let's board, boys!' ('Al abordaje, muchachos!') as they were being bombarded by a superior Peruvian ship. He was ultimately killed and his Chilean ship sunk, but his death rallied Chilean support for the war and contributed to the Chilean victory. As a result of the War of the Pacific, Chile gained both Peruvian and Bolivian territory. Bolivia lost its access to the Pacific Ocean, while Chile gained a huge section of its current northern territory, including the Atacama Desert. 

Above: Peru ceded Tarapaca to Chile. Finally in the early 20th century would the two countries finally agree to official territorial terms: Peru reacquired Tacna while Chile would maintain Arica. Bolivia relinquished Antofagasta, a mineral-rich region, thereby ceding its access to the ocean. The region economically impacted the countries greatly.

Street Art

There were a great number of foreigners walking along the cobblestone streets, taking pictures of the iconic multi-colored staircases, using the ascensores ('elevators') because they are the only way to ascend and descend hills, and buying souvenirs from the street stands on every corner. My family and I often saw artists selling their own work. Some were even creating new pieces while sitting at their stands. There were artists everywhere!

Above: I loved virtually all the street art in Valparaiso and found this wall piece particularly beautiful, located right outside of the gates in front of Pablo Neruda's house.

Above: Ascensor 

Above: This is a popular fabric decorative piece that was sold.

Almost every street and wall surface had graffiti. They were often amazing. Valparaiso would definitely not be the same without its color.

Above: This was probably 1/16th of the wall. It was exciting to see a tribute to native culture here, which is often neglected and discrimated upon, especially by the Chilean government.

Above: I was enamored by this wall, in particular.

Above: Small shops of all kinds, like boutique stores, cafes, bakeries, and art galleries, were on every street. Many galleries, like the one pictured above, pictured every type of artistic portrayal of the city.

Above: One of the artist-vendors was a man who made a living constructing outlines of Valparaiso out of cardboard. The level of detail and craftmanship was mindblowing. 

Above: Many restaurants obviously catered to the English-speaking tourists.

Above: This wall said "Siempre" (meaning "Always"). Maybe it is talking about the length of youth? Or it could just be beautiful art...

Above: Staircases everywhere! I saw a photograph of a staircase painted as a piano, but I could not locate it. The city, which is basically a large hill along the coast, is divided in different 'cerros' (hills) which are the different neighborhood sectors. We could only visit two or three cerros in our short stay.

Above: Another of the street shops. 

Valparaiso might just be my favorite city in Chile, but I will have to wait and see! There is still so much left to explore!

Ciao!