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Thursday, December 18, 2014

30 Random Facts about Chile

Above: Here I am in the tiny pueblo named Machuca in the Atacama Desert

Reading Mi Pais Inventado (where Allende looks back at the country of her roots, Chile, and asks questions about her identity) this week towards the end of my journey in Chile is a great continuation to reading Paula (which talks about feeling of loss after she loses her daughter to a rare disease and recounts the pain of leaving Chile after the Chilean dictator Pinochet rose in power) right before my arrival to Chile. 



The book lets me compare my personal thoughts about Chilean culture with Allende’s impression of the country of her birth. Most especially, I love Allende’s voice as an independent woman who is both an idealist and a fatalist. She is incredibly nostalgic about her imagined Chile after being exiled from the country. It inspired me to take a step back to reflect on everything that I have seen so far.

Above: In the beach "Bahia Pelicanos Horcon"

Here you are!

1.      Santiago has the best of two worlds. With a dry Californian weather, it is easy to go both to the ocean and the mountains on the same day. One can take a weekend trip to the beach, which is 1.5 hours away, and also go the Andes, which are 45 minutes away by car from Santiago. The capital city is very Americanized, with its share of typical American stores like Pizza Hut and Starbucks. I even was surprised by how up-to-date my peers were regarding American culture. 

Above: The different 'barrios' or neighborhoods of the capital of Santiago. Richer neighborhoods are closer to the cordillera ('mountain range') in the northeastern region. These include Lo Barnechea, Vitacura, Las Condes, and La Reina.

Another interesting aspect is the dynamic between santiaguinos ('citizens of Santiago') and the two-thirds of the country that live outside of the capital. Many people in Santiago view that those in the countryside lack the modern advantages of having every product and service available. Meanwhile, people outside the capital tend to dislike Santiago due to its heavy pollution that is caused by rapid economic growth. 

I admire that the people outside Santiago are closer to nature, have clear skies, and make their own bread, among other more traditional cultural activities, but I also appreciate the fast lifestyle, efficient public transportation, and other metropolitan opportunities in Santiago.

2.      There are lots of stray dogs! I was so surprised when I first arrived; now, they form the landscape of the city to me.

(Above: Here is a stray dog in front of the Grand Press Photo Exhibition)

3.      Fresh bread! Fresh bread of all types, including marraqueta, amasado, and pan dulce, are sold in the supermarkets. In smaller cities outside of Santiago, it is common to cook your own fresh bread at home.
Above: Pan marraqueta, which has the same consistency as French bread

Above: Pan amasado, often made in Chilean homes

4.      Manjar! My family and friends could not imagine that I had never tried it before I came to Chile. It is basically a caramel-like sugar that is put in all types of sweets. Manjar can also be used as a breakfast spread during breakfast or once. Before, it was common to be homemade through a process to heat milk for a long time so that the sugar of milk, or 'dulce de leche', is formed. Nowadays, it is sold in containers at the supermarket and few make it at home because it is a more time-consuming process. Manjar has its own texture and flavor, and now it is difficult to imagine cake without it!

(Above: Also called 'dulce de leche' in Argentina, manjar is made by heating and stirring milk. The milk first becomes condensed milk, then manjar.)

5.      Once. I just love that it literally means ‘eleven’ but is a British-inspired tea time eaten at 5pm. Oh, the irony.

Above: The traditional once, with avocado, tea, and bread. Some families do not eat dinner. Instead, they eat a large once.
(Above: Once with my mom in the bohemian Bellavista neighborhood. From left to right is bread, salad, and plain clam soup.)

6.      The rich live higher up the mountain slopes. I always like to ask this question in each country I visit.

7.      Chile is very culturally Catholic, but not necessarily religious. Many people do not go to church regularly. Yet, the influence of the Catholic Church remains strong and the country leans on the conservative side. As examples, abortion is illegal regardless of reason, while divorce was just legalized around five years ago. Before that, the only option to separate legally was to file for annulment.

(Above: Church in the Atacama Desert. There are many colonial-era churches in Chile. Note that the architecture resembles numerous other churches built by the Spanish in the 'Conquistador' time period.)

8.      It is considered a machist country overall. My family is not like this, but the sentiment is common in most Chilean households.

9.      The minority have private health coverage, which can be at the level of American and international care. The majority have public and free coverage that are of much lower quality. I have only had experience in private clinics so I cannot speak for the private system.


10.   Physical education class was mandatory. Although it was a pain sometimes to exercise in the morning, I learned how to play soccer, handball, and chalk ball. I also learned how to dance the national dance, called cueca!

Above: In the annual dance during 'Fiesta Patrias' - the week of Chilean Independence - the president Michelle Bachelet dances cueca.

11.  The Texan flag resembles the Chilean one both in design and color scheme.
Above: The Chilean flag in the Atacama Desert is above, while the checkered flag below represents the Latin American native groups.
Above: I took this picture while in Houston to obtain my Chilean visa. It is the Texas flag which was designed many years after Chile's flag conception.

12.  The Chilean cuisine is very simple with few condiments. Fresh bread, pate, avocado, mayonnaise, potatoes, quail eggs, palmitos (vegetable from the core of palm trees), and instant Nescafe coffee are staples for both breakfast and tea time. In fact, the combined toppings of avocado and mayonnaise is called ‘italiano.’ Hot dogs are usually ordered with these toppings and are thus called ‘completos italianos.’ 


 
(Above, from left to right: Quail Eggs, Completo Italiano, Palmitos)
(Above: Pastel de choclo)

Traditional dishes include baked zapallo italiano (amazing baked zucchini with cheese, which is my favorite food), carbonada (soup with meat, corn, and potatoes, charquican (stew made of beef, squash, corn, and onion with a fried egg on top), pastel de choclo (baked corn pie), empanadas, pebre sauce (mashed cilantro, onion, and oil as a bread topping during signature barbecues), and cazuela (hearty meat and vegetable stew named for the specific type of cooking pot used to make the dish). 

A salad is usually eaten on the side. They are usually composed of beets, lentils, lettuce, and/or tomatoes. Most Chileans then add salt and either balsamic vinaigrette or olive oil.

(Above: Pastel de zapallo italiano; 'zucchini bake')


(Above: Charquican)
(Above: Carbonada)
(Above: Cazuela)

Another interesting fact is that water is offered in water bottles at all the restaurants I have visited because it is seen to ensure the water quality. 

Japanese sushi restaurants and Peruvian restaurants are everywhere. I must admit that I discovered a love for Peruvian food and prefer it more than Chilean food! I especially love aji de gallina and ceviche. Yum!


(Above: My favorite Peruvian dish "aji de gallina," chicken with chili sauce)
(Above: My second favorite Peruvian dish is called ceviche, which has raw seafood like fish, squid, or octopus, with corn, onion, and lemon juice.)


13.  There are many many sweets… Cakes are called pasteles, tortas, or kuchen (a German word). My favorite discovery has been the ‘pastel de milhojas’ (cake of a thousand layers), which has layers of crackers and manjar. It is incredibly savory and is eaten at celebrations.

(Above: Pastel de milhojas)

14.  Chileans have different words for earthquakes. As a group of people used to heavy seismic activity, they call the trembling of the ground an actual earthquake (a ‘terremoto’) when it is past 6.5 or so on the Richter scale. Locals say that a terremoto occurs every 20 years in three main regions of Chile. Otherwise, seismic activity below 6.5 is called a ‘temblor,’ only a tremor. I experienced a 6.0 earthquake in Santiago, the second earthquake I have felt in my life.
(Above: The earthquake began in Quillota, on the 6.4 Richter scale, and was felt in Santiago at a 6.0 scale in late August. This was the second earthquake I felt in my life and the first one I felt in Chile.)

15.  Housekeepers are common for many Chilean households. They are called ‘nanas’ and are usually Peruvian or Bolivian women. Their jobs can include caretaking of children, house cleaning, and food-making. We have a lovely Peruvian woman at our house who helps clean and cook; she even taught me how to make a Peruvian dish and I greatly enjoy and appreciate our conversations.

16.  Everyone uses an application called Whatsapp. I had never heard of this app in the United States, but everyone in Chile uses this application to text and send images in addition to audio messages. 

My friends have even questioned the American tendency to pay for text messaging. They say that the app’s advantage is that it is free, quick, only requires internet connection, and allows the creation of multiple groups for friends, schoolmates, and family. I love the app. My family uses it to communicate as a group together, my classmates ask each other for homework help and simply to organize ourselves, and my friends and I use it as for conversation. This is probably an application that could make American classrooms more productive!



17.  Chileans have a beneficial tendency towards solidarity. In particular, Teleton is a large event where the entire country gives to a children’s charity. It is a competition against its own self to exceed last year's monetary amount of charity donations. 

Another example is the strong presence of the Chilean public institution of charity ‘Hogar de Cristo’ (‘Home of Christ’) that Chile’s second saint Padre Hurtado created. The place helps thousands in poverty by providing them internet access, food, clothes, books, lodging, and health services. I went to volunteer on a school day with my friends and it was a touching experience to speak to the men.


18.  Chileans kiss on the right cheek as a greeting. We kiss on the right cheek to say hello or good bye. When I was preparing to go to Chile, I was confused by this practice. Now, I am much more accustomed; it can best be described as a touching of cheeks to greet someone. Females with each other or with males greet with a kiss, while men shake hands with each other. Another evidence of Chileans’ courtesy is that it is a cultural habit for friends to call each other’s’ parents as uncle or aunt, which happens to also be a Chinese and Vietnamese custom.
Above: The common cheek greeting, called 'un besito,' from the word 'beso,' meaning kiss. Chileans tend to transform words into the diminutive form by adding "-ito" at the end, Thus, 'besito' is a 'little kiss.'

19.  Everyone has a carnet de identidad (identity card) with fingerprints from all ten fingers. I found this interesting because in the US, the documentation of all ten fingerprints is only required for a thorough background check. 

Meanwhile, Chileans must obtain the card from their birth. As a foreigner, I had to obtain it within the first week or so. This required a painful wait in a government building for four hours after hundreds of other people. This card is important in many ways. For example, if you are renting something, the cashier can ask to keep your card for the duration to make sure you will return the object. Also, your identity number is unique to you, so it is used to verify card transactions in stores.


20.  The Chilean consulate states that it is far more difficult to exit Chile (especially as a minor) than it is to enter it. I believe them. I had to wait five weeks for my FBI background check. I also had to obtain the Chilean school enrollment letter, a signed letter from my natural parents, and my parents had to physically appear with me to the consulate after a 15 hour drive to Houston to verify all the documents. It was a painful process of paperwork and waiting, but it was definitely worth it! 

In fact, Chile and the US have an agreement regarding the tourist visa. It does not require extra paperwork to enter either country as a visitor staying for 90 days or less; one simply needs to pay a fee at the airport. However, the student visa that I am on requires a more complicated process.

21.  The current style for girls is composed of leggings or skinny jeans, a crop top, and ankle boots or shoes with a high platform.

22.  Part of the popular Torres Del Paine destination, a national park visited by people from all over the world, is privately owned. It was privatized during Pinochet’s time. How interesting that a natural landmark is considered a source of private economic profit!

Above: Torres del Paine. I want to visit some day!

23.  Gasoline is not subsidized like it is in the US so it is almost double the price. All cars are imported, so they are very expensive. Also, I have seen many cars with Chinese and German brands I have never seen before. My dad, though, can recognize each car brand by sight.

24.  Fidel Castro and Allende were friends. Castro came to a visit that was planned for little more than a week but ended up staying for more than a month visiting the country. He even visited the largest open-faced mine in the world that I also visited, called Chuquicamata. Chuquicamata produces mainly copper, a main mineral exported from Chile from the mineral-rich northern region. It actually is going to become an underground mine in a few years because the structure, efficiency, and cost of the open-faced mine is difficult to support.

Above: From left to right are Castro and Allende

25.  Some Chileans are annoyed that people from the US call themselves ‘americanos’ because technically Chile is also part of the American continent. This is why each time I identify myself as ‘estadounidense’ (United-States-of-American).

26.  Chile and the US have around 15% of its citizens below the poverty line. I was surprised that they shared this statistic but it makes sense. Both experience poor wealth distribution. (Take a look at this comparison chart of countries: http://www.indexmundi.com/g/r.aspx?v=69)


Above: I am not entirely sure how accurate and precise the above graph is, but I think that it is useful to give as a visual comparison of social and economic mobility in developing countries. The US is very near the end of the list, and Chile is even farther down.

27.  The US Constitution includes the right to the pursuit of happiness. Chile’s Constitution includes the other rights of religion, speech, press, assembly, and petition, but excludes the part about happiness.

28.  There is German influence in Chile, especially in the southern region. The Chilean government paid for German workers to immigrate to Chile during the 1800s to colonize places like Puerto Montt which the Araucanian Indians considered their territory. The government believed that it would increase their economy and diversity to bring in German workers who brought their skill and knowledge. Ultimately, these cities continue to preserve German culture, language, and food preparation methods. It also explains why many Chileans do not fit the stereotype of a Latino appearance of being brown-eyed and dark-haired; many Chileans are fairly light-skinned and appear European.

Above: Puerto Varas, a notable town that conserves German culture, is in the southern region called 'Los Lagos.'

29.  Native Rights: Only in the 1990s did the Chilean government acknowledge the existence of native groups of Chile. Technically, the Mapuche Indians in the south of Chile in the Patagonia region never gave Chile sovereignty over its territory and actually maintained their fight for independence into the 20th century.

It is a difficult situation because many natives who were illiterate in Spanish signed pieces of papers ceding territory. This situation becomes even more challenging because many Chileans see the land as their right; after all, their ancestors ended up working the land too. In the past decade, Mapuche Indians in particular have engaged in violent protests that include land occupation and arson, including in the notable Cerro Santa Lucia in Santiago. All in all, the government has made efforts to compensate (or make complacent) the natives by doing small actions like give back some territory,. However, these native groups that represent 5% of the Chilean population are not well-represented and respected by the country's politics and the general citizenships' mindset.

Above: A map of Chile and the distinctive pottery from each indigenous group in Chile are depicted on the orange-colored wall. Here I am in the Cultural Center below the Presidential Palace in downtown Santiago.

Above: Map of Chilean Indigenous groups. I have learned mainly about the Atacamenian culture in the north and the Mapuche culture in the south.


Above: Called 'Wiphala,' the rainbow-checkered flag represents indigenous people of the Andes in Latin America. It encompasses groups from Chile, Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, Argentina, and Columbia.

30.  Vietnam and Chile comprise two parts of me now. Part of the reason for this is because I see many similarities between Vietnam and Chile. 

For example, there was heavy US internal involvement in both countries especially during the Cold War era. They are also widely recognized for their catastrophic events. For Chile, it was the brutal Pinochet dictatorship supported by the US that overthrew the democratically elected Communist leader Allende; for Vietnam, it was French occupation of Vietnam and, later, the disastrous events and consequences of the Vietnam War. 

Both cases highlight the tendency for poverty to encourage social revolution. The poor and artists supported the Chilean political left during Allende’s rise to power while the poor Vietnamese in the country supported the North Vietnamese Communist fighters. 

They both underwent social experiments conducted on a nation-wide scale with a severe humanitarian impact. Chile’s experiment with the world’s first look at socialism failed due to the Allende administration's internal failings and American involvement in wreaking havoc on the political and economic stability of the country. 

The most important point is that these countries have much more to offer than their most popular history. They are currently trying to separate from this single-minded perception of their countries. As Soren Kierkegaard says, "Life can only be understood backwards, but it must be lived forwards."


 
Above: A view of the majestic Andes in the winter. I can't believe this is what I woke up to for several months!

Above: Another part I will miss... football culture! My Chilean family gave this to me as my first gift. We all have matching t-shirts with different numbers!


Above: This is ultimately another mountain - the Sandias - that I will be seeing soon!


Tuesday, December 16, 2014

FAQs on Political, Economic, and Social Issues

(Above: One of my absolute favorite memories of Chile: Sandboarding in the Atacama Desert)

Since I have begun doing Skype conferences with Spanish classes in my US high school, many thought-provoking questions came up. This is a more serious post than usual, but I thought it would be worthwhile to share a few questions and answers below.

1.      What are Chilean stereotypes of Americans?
As all stereotypes go, it is difficult – and really, impossible – to generalize any group of people. On the whole, I would say that Americans – called ‘gringos’ – are seen to be prideful of their country, open to new ideas, friendly, fat, and consumerists. I have seen many more European tourists than American here, but the American culture is widespread on billboards and television.

2.      Given Chile’s recent history of a dictatorship (lasting from 1973-1989), what is the military presence like in Chile now? How much power does it have?
In the years close to the dictatorship, especially before Pinochet was arrested (and eventually died), the military presence was certainly much stronger. Nowadays, there is not a noticeable presence, beyond the police force protecting internal security.

3.      Are banks corrupt? Is Chile a corrupt country?
I would argue that no, it is not. Chile is known to be one of the most secure and financially stable Latin American countries with little corruption, especially when compared to its very corrupt Argentinian neighbor.

(Above: Awesome metro station)
(Above: Valuable map of Santiago's metro and bus lines posted in public places)


4.      Is Chile dangerous?
Chile is generally safe, especially in Santiago. As a foreigner or tourist, one needs to be vigilant of personal possessions, scams, shady neighborhoods, and crowded public places, but I have always felt safe living here. I often travel alone by walking in my neighborhood, taking the bus, and using the metro (subway). Roads are safe as well; Chileans generally respect traffic rules and pedestrians, although there are some parts of the street that are poorly designed, so it is sometimes dangerous to be a pedestrian.

(Above: The BIP! system is a card that can be used in all types of public transportation and there are numerous places like supermarkets to add money to the card)

There is also ongoing domestic terrorist activities, including placement of explosive devices in the subway or in ATM machines and fires set on agricultural or notable landmarks. These groups are usually pro-indigenous (notably the Mapuches) and anarchist groups. Overall, I think that there have been a few injuries but no deaths from such events.

Also, the news in the morning – of which there are around three main channels broadcasted to all Chileans – often picture nightly incidents of violence and bar brawls near the clubs in downtown Santiago, but I would argue that this is a sign of small violence. The traveler should be precautious in the downtown area in the evening, but this is common sense for downtown areas of any metropolitan city.

Protests are also fairly common. There is probably a large demonstration of thousands of people every few months or so. I receive email notices from the US Embassy warning of planned marches. These marches are usually for educational quality, but there have also been protests about work situations. They are usually passive (or at least begin this way) and accompanied by the police, but they can become chaotic with building destruction and riots and the police apply tear gas and other forces.

(Above: 'Free Education for Everyone')

(Above: 'Education to Fight; Fight for Education')

(Above: This week's march for Human Rights. The human rights situation in Chile is much better than it was during the dictatorship. It still has problems including police abuse of activists, overcrowded prisons, lack of compensation for those discriminated, and absolute prohibition on abortion.)

5.      How many are poor in Chile?
According to the World Bank, Chile is known as a high income developing country. There were 14.4% of people in poverty in the 2011 survey with lower social mobility than other developing countries like Denmark and the US.


6.      What are Chileans’ attitudes about smoking?
Smoking is very common with the citizens on the whole. The World Health Organization states that 40% of Chileans smoke. Around 20% of Americans smoke. While the Chilean government has initiated steps like banning smoking from public places and doing a competition for a cash prize for Chilean students who smoke the least, I do not see any change happening. It is commonplace to see people smoking at parties and even more common for the youth to smoke for fun only at parties. It is unfortunate that it is almost normal to see 14-year-old smokers. 


7.      At what age can Chileans drink alcohol?
Like most countries in the world, the minimum age is 18. I would argue that there is little government enforcement of under-age drinking because it is common at social youth gatherings.

8.      Is divorce common in Chile?
As a conservative country, Chile finally legalized divorce in 2004 and its divorce statistic is very low at 3%. Before this time, people had to find an excuse to annul their marriage. However, it is common that couples are separated without legal paperwork. In fact, one-third of my Chilean classmates have separated parents.

9.      How many Chileans are depressed?
Chile has a high rate of depression. It actually has one of the highest rates of depression in Latin America, although it is one of the most economically prosperous. According to the Santiago Times newspaper, around 15% of the population is depressed, rather than the 8-12% rate seen in other countries. It also has one of the highest suicide rates of young male teenagers. Rapid economic growth, stigmas regarding mental health issues, and cultural expectations are factors.

10.  What is the situation with adolescent pregnancy?
Chile has one of the highest rates in the world according to the World Bank Organization at 55 births per 1000 women aged 15-19. This can be attributed to the fact that abortion is illegal in all circumstances, there is a sexually conservative society, and there is intense poverty (most teenage mothers are from the lowest socioeconomic situations).

In comparison, the US rate is 31 births per 1000 women aged 15-19. It all depends on the region as well; New Mexico, one of the poorer states, has one of the highest teen pregnancy rates in the nation with 99 births per 1000 women aged 15-19.

(Above: La Moneda Presidential Palace)

11.  Tell me one surprising fact about Chile.
I admire very much that Chileans acknowledge and accept their recent past with the Pinochet dictatorship and that they have looked to the future, building Chile to become an economically powerful country. Overall, I would say that the effects of the dictatorship are not widely felt on a day-to-day basis.

Therefore, I was immensely surprised to learn in my history class that the Constitution revised by the Pinochet government remains in effect to this day although it was approved by Chilean citizens in a highly controversial and probably unfair 1980 plebiscite. Basically, the Constitution of 1980 modified the Constitution of 1925 (in fact, Chile has had more than eight different Constitutions). The new redaction of the Constitution began only a few days after the coup d’etat military takeover of the Chilean Allende government on September 11, 1973.
(Above: Chilean coat of arms with its motto 'By Reason or by Force')


The contents of this Constitution includes the following: strong Executive power with the President of the Republic as the Chief of State with the ability to declare a state of exception or war that can revoke citizens’ rights, a presidential term of non-consecutive eight-year terms (recently modified again, Chilean presidents can have unlimited non-consecutive 4-year terms), a two-chambered Parliament of deputies and senators with the ability to accuse the President and ministers of wrongdoing, and non-elected senators for life (actually the way Pinochet gained Chilean political immunity became when he was forced out of power; this undemocratic part was eventually eliminated).